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This lug-rigged sharpie is a very popular Bolger design since it sails well and isn't too big for one person to handle. Robert Berger's web page has some nice pix of his. |
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16-ft sharpie camp cruiser with a |
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I found this nice example somewhere on the Web and lost track where. Several people have since told em where. I guess I should update the caption. Long Micro is a 19-ft box-sharpie with a small keel. In this picture she's about 5 feet off the beach. |
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Here's an atmospheric shot of Bill Parkes' Chebacco. This design comes in several versions (plywood chine, like this one; lapstrake; a 25-footer; and a motorsailer). Chebacco owner Bill Samson tracks the worldwide Chebacco builders' community in his web-based Chebacco News. |
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Here's the motorsailer, built by Bob Cushing. Both photos are from Bill Samson's excellent Chebacco News. |
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Bill Samson's paddling pirogue on the rugged coast of Scotland. Bill says: "Cop a load of this! Sheila and I had just paddled across the mile or so of open sea to the island of Lismore! Good eh? (We must have been out of our tiny minds!)" (This is not the same as the Pirogue 12 or the Common Sense Designs Sailing Pirogue. Yes, there are at least 3 Bolger Pirogues.) |
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This the the Edey & Duff Dovekie.
It's a trailer-sailer camping cruiser. The mast may
look odd because the sail has been brailed up to
the mast for the night. If this were England, 1900, I suppose this would be a leeboard canoe yawl (no, there's no mizzenmast). |
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An all-time classic design. Larger than the
Micro at 23', trailerable, with water ballast. The
cabin is small but spacious given its size (sounds
like a real contradiction, but sailors know exactly
what this means!) |
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The plan here is sufficient to build from. If you do, Phil would like you to send him $25 as a builders' fee "or 2% of the sale price" if you build one and sell it to someone.
This is not a difficult building job, but it helps to have built a "stitch & glue" boat before. If you haven't, read H. H. Payson's Build the New Instant Boats, see Chesapeake Light Craft's web site for a kitbuilding description that applies to this boat or find the Stitch & Glue Primer on Jacques Mertens' web page.
Draw one side full-size on a piece of 4ft x 12ft plywood made by epoxying one and a half sheets of 1/4" plywood end to end. To mark the points which determine the sheer (the upper curve of the side) and the chine (the line where the bottom meets the sides) measure off the stations shown on the plan, and then measure off and mark two points on each station line, as shown:
Once you've done this, connect the dots with a long flexible batten (strip) of wood. A 10ft length of 1/2" PVC pipe works, too, and it's cheap. If you don't have eight hands or a couple friends to help you bend the pipe to a smooth, fair curve, drive a nail into each marked point and push the pipe or batten up against the nails with weights (bricks, books, tools, gallon jugs of water). Make sure there are no kinks in the curve, and mark along it with a magic marker or a pencil.The important part of the layout are the curves themselves. Don't worry about the actual height of the sides; the imaginary grid takes care of that. If one point or another is obviously wrong, trust the bent batten and draw the curve through wherever the batten says it should fall.
Then flip the side over and trace around it for the second side (easy!) and saw it out.
Cut out the four bulkheads: 1, 2, 3, and T. Note that transom "T" is one inch thick. It's quite small and you can probably get by with 1/2" thickness, well filleted with epoxy.
Assemble the bulkheads and sides stitch & glue fashion. Note that Bulkhead 2 is temporary and is only screwed in or glued with something like white glue or blobs of house caulk which can be scraped off (or use two vertical 1x2s joined by a slab of plywood).
Turn the assembly over and lay plywood over the bottom. Mark the outline of the sides on it. Cut out the bottom and attach it, stitch-and-glue style. John Harris added internal chine logs, or wood strips, to reinforce this joint.
Add the shoe, an extra layer of plywood down the center, outside, to stiffen the bottom and help prevent abrasion.
Then:
The gunwales.
These are strips of wood which stiffen the upper edge of the hull. They only have to extend as far as the fore and aft bulkheads. Use epoxy and clamps to attach them. Round over the inner edges to spare your flesh.
The decks.
Decks are attached in the same way that the bottom is attached. If you build solid bulkhead air tanks as John did, you do not need to glue flotation foam to the underside of the foredeck and afterdeck. I would epoxy on a 3-inch-wide backing block of 1/4-inch material across the stern (under the deck) for mounting hardware through the deck, and add an internal or external V-shaped breasthook of 1/4-inch material at the stem, extending back about four to six inches. This makes it easy to attach a nice padeye for a painter and various fairleads as required.
The rudder.
For both the rudder and leeboard, 1/2-inch is thick enough. Laminate two pieces of 1/4-in plywood under some weights against a flat surface, or find the material of your choice. Cut it out as described in the plans and fair the leading and trailing edges. See below for a bungee-scheme adapted from John Bull's book Sail Your Canoe. It pulls the rudder down while allowing it to pop up when it touches bottom. The fact that the rudder is not weighted is one of my biggest complaints about the peeros John built. John, on the other hand, doesn't mind pirouetting in place inside the boat to reset the rudder to a full down position.If you happen to have some 3/32" or 1/8" sheet aluminum running around, it can be used as the rudder. Round over the leading edge a little.
The leeboard.
Cut it out as shown. Fair, or round over, the leading and trailing edges of the leeboard. Extend the fairing on the leading edge most of the way to the centerline of the board at the top. When you're heeled over, the water can come up nearly this far. Same for the trailing edge.
The mast and rigs.
John designed a simple and effective mast step. The mast partner is a piece of wood attached to the upper side of the deck with screws from below. John decided to use some spare jibs from a racing dinghy as sails just to get them in the water during their first season:
They work, but the mast is a little too tall for comfort in such a narrow boat! John settled on a small balanced lug, which works well.
Bolger has drawn a tiny gaff rig, but after experimenting I'm far from convinced that it's a very good idea. One nice thing about the peero, you can experiment with rigs like crazy without running up much of a bill. You need some tarp and a couple masts, one short and one long. For more about the sail rigs, see Odd Sails from Polytarp:
Don't be afraid to personalize your pirogue with additions which you like. For example, John added rubrails on the outside and used a push-pull tiller instead of Bolger's suggested steering pedals.
You can order the sail kits for this boat from Sailrite and the price is very good (under $100 for each of these). Ask for the "Bolger Sailing Pirogue Gaff Sail" or the "CLC Mill Creek Lug Sail" depending on which one you want.
Surely I must have some. Ah yes. The best way of rigging the lugsail is found here: [URL] the system of halyards was described by George Holmes, one of the inventors of the canoe yawl, back in about 1880. It does a great job of keeping the sail taut in the luff and at the same time keeps the yard waggling to a minimum. I have some diagrams and photos which will go up ASAP.
I don't sell boats. I thought I might extract a few Bolger boat classified ads from Messing About in Boats from time to time. The real motivation is to convince you to subscribe to MAIB. The secondary hidden agenda is to get you on the water in a Bolger boat if you're really, really afraid to build your own.These are from September and October 1998. I can't promise that I'll update these very often, and I can't promise that I'll even keep this section here.
- Bobcat, $1,500
Sails, trailer.
Monte Rhodes, Austin TX, 512-453-4525 rhodesm@apple.com
- Gypsy, $995 with trailer
Larry Jones, Raleigh NC, 919-851-4586 larry_jones@ncsu.edu
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1.5 10/20/97 2.0 01/04/00